Daring on the Deschutes

By Bob Difley

The designation "scenic waterway" caught my eye. It was indicated in red along the lower Deschutes River, which flows north in north central Oregon to its meeting with the Columbia River at Deschutes River State Park and campground about 15 miles east of The Dalles. Many of the campground’s beautiful spaces are located in the shade of tall or spreading trees providing shade from the hot afternoon summer sun.

However there were no roads that followed the river upstream along its "scenic" section, where I hoped to explore. Fortunately, there was an easy loop drive south on 197 to Maupin astride the Deschutes in the middle of its designated scenic section.

Maupin’s narrow streets twist among bungalow style homes that cling to the rolling hillsides rising from the ravine carved by the Deschutes River, the natural feature that defines Maupin. It is this natural feature that has transformed this once quiet hamlet into a river rafting and recreation destination.

Busy coffee houses display dramatic rafting photos, and tables crowded with both expectant rafters and seasoned veterans buzz with exciting stories of white water adventure. Weekends bustle with activity as several rafting companies launch their brightly colored rafts filled with adventure seekers ready to take on the tumultuous and wild Deschutes River. The County campground is the primary launching site where tents, trailers, motorhomes, and truck campers crowd into every available space and the launching ramp provides the center of activity.

The impression is one of total chaos, but eventually all the rafters seem to get in the right boat, nobody is left behind, and the water canons appear as war breaks out between competing boats. Girls scream, boys shout, and everyone seems to be required to fall in--or be pushed in--before they get to the first rapids. But nobody goes on a rafting trip expecting to stay dry, and even if you survive the water battles up to the first rapids, the waves going through will guarantee a drenching. The "Squeal and Splash Zone" the locals dub the popular section between Maupin and Sandy Beach, the take out spot.

As I watched, Lynn reminded me that I was long past my twenties and if I thought I was going to get her on one of those party rafts full of twenty-somethings in their tiny bikinis I had another thought coming. Oh well.

Just by coincidence we happened to pass through on a beautiful Saturday of a beautiful weekend intending only to see the Deschutes canyon and the falls—not to raft—then move on. Though the campground was full, I wanted to stay awhile and take in all this activity.

So, as every good boondocker would do, I looked for a good spot to hold up for the weekend. I found that the river road follows the east bank of the river downstream for about five miles to the falls and all along dispersed campsites were scattered along the shoreline.

Rafter Mania

After securing a spot we stopped at several pull offs to watch the rafters, a never ending source of entertainment as they bounced and plowed through the whitewater rapids, whooping and squealing in displays of pure delight.

Later we returned to a coffee house in Maupin for the traditional afternoon espresso and to see the day’s rafting photos, taken from a good vantage point and hung along the walls by the photographer in hopes of making a sale. The shots of the faces of people on capsizing rafts were the most fun.

On the terrace a big strawberry blonde golden retriever mom played with her fuzzy round puppy, rolling about with fake growling right under the feet of the rafters. The mom walked off to get a drink of water and the puppy spied Lynn’s shoelaces. In an instant he grabbed them in his mouth, instigating a ferocious tug of war with her sneaker, snarling and whipping his head from side to side. It was all she could do to extricate her shoe before he tore the laces right out in his enthusiasm.

Like so much of our RVing life, we had a great time on the deck listening to the rafting stories and enjoying the camaraderie of the rafters. We hadn’t planned to spend any time here, but had adjusted our schedule (if you can call our loose style of wandering a schedule) to one of spontaneous whim. It was just another typical day in the lives of typical RVers.